Bob's Eye on Iberia

Thoughts on Iberia in the 19th Century

My previous post reflected on the authoritarian dictatorships in Portugal and Spain during much of the 20th century: Salazar’s dictatorship in Portugal, Franco’s in Spain. Both resulted from opposition to attempts to move from traditional monarchic rule to a liberal democratic republic. This post provides context for both the failed attempts at liberal democracy and the strength of the reactions against them by turning back to what happened in the 19th century in both countries. To accomplish that in a single post, I need first to define some essential concepts, using terms that unfortunately are often misused and abused in current political discourse.

Liberty, Rights, Liberalism, and Anti-liberalism

In The Constitution of Liberty, political philosopher (and Nobel-winning economist) Friedrich Hayek defines the “state of liberty or freedom” as “the state in which a man is not subject to coercion by the arbitrary will of another or others.”[1] With some important caveats, this is a pretty good starting point for discussing political freedom and liberty. The first caveat is that we have to replace Hayek’s “man” with “person,” to get rid of the implicit cultural gender bias that Hayek shares with Jefferson in the Declaration of Independence. Second, we have to acknowledge that “coercion” is a loaded term that needs careful unpacking. Third, we must deal with the reality that political freedom only becomes an issue in a societal context, so the sphere of activity in which one person can exercise liberty is bounded by the spheres of freedom of others.[2]

In a particular social order, or civil society, the rights accorded an individual define and protect that person’s sphere of free action, his or her liberties. Rights set and clarify the boundaries of liberty. Despite the claims about natural rights made by 18th century Enlightenment thinkers—including the Founding Fathers of the United States—all rights are grounded in the social context of being human and are shaped by the social order in which one lives. In class-hierarchical societies, such as medieval feudalism, rights depend on a person’s class. For example, feudal lords have more extensive rights than peasants or tradesmen, who in turn have more rights (a larger sphere of action free of coercion) than do serfs and slaves. The dominant religion in a feudal society typically has a clerical hierarchy that assigns rights according to one’s place in the hierarchy.

In the context of societies evolving out of feudal class hierarchies, liberalism refers to the extension of rights (and the liberties defined by those rights) to those who previously were denied them. The reaction to preserve traditional rights for select groups, rather than accept the extension of those rights to others, is antiliberalism or reactionary conservatism.[3] I will use the word liberal to describe persons or actions that support liberalism. I use antiliberal to refer to persons or actions opposing the extension of rights beyond those classes and groups that held them in the past.

Rights in 19th Century Portugal and Spain: Tradition Versus Expansion

With this bit of political theory in hand, we can get back to what I learned about Spain and Portugal during this trip. As related by the many experts who explained Iberian history as we toured from Lisbon to Barcelona, the politics of 19th Century Portugal and Spain are mind-numbingly complex. Which King Alfonso/Afonso did what, and why, to which Pedro or Ferdinand or Juan/Joäo made sense when I heard it, but an hour later that detail became entangled with a hundred others. As I reviewed historical timelines and Wikipedia entries to untangle the data into information, a common theme emerged:

In broad terms, the sociopolitical histories of Spain and Portugal during the 19th Century are stories of (a) liberal efforts to expand the rights of groups previously restricted from exercising certain liberties versus (b) the antiliberal reaction against those liberal efforts by those seeking to maintain traditional restrictions of rights to groups with higher status.

Most of the time, the liberalizing efforts were aimed at transitioning a government from more-or-less absolute monarchy to a parliamentary monarchy in which the coercive powers of king, aristocracy, and church were to be restricted by rights guaranteed in a written constitution. At times, more-radical liberals pushed for an end to monarchy in favor of a republic, but in 19thCentury Iberia, republicans were quickly suppressed. I have to qualify the monarchic tradition in Portugal and Spain as “more or less absolute” because Iberian monarchs always had to deal with a traditional and powerful aristocracy. In both countries, the formal role of the aristocracy in governance had been represented since medieval times by a cortes, which functioned (when it functioned) as a kind of advisory council to the monarch.

Iberian Kingdoms in 1210

In Portugal, if the monarch was weak or the royal succession was in dispute, one or more aristocrats would rebel and take over the throne. Sometimes the rebellion began a new dynasty; sometimes it quickly succumbed to an heir from the old line or to another aristocratic challenger. In Spain before 1469, multiple kingdoms and dukedoms changed boundaries periodically, as local rulers fought or married each other. That year, Isabela of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon married and, calling themselves the Catholic Monarchs, united most of Spain under their combined rule. Their grandson became the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, as well as the first Habsburg king of Spain, Charles I. But Charles’s great-great-grandson, Charles II, died without children, and the next Spanish king was decided via a grand melee among European monarchs and aristocrats known as the War of the Spanish Succession.

But by the beginning of the 19th Century, the existential threat to Iberian monarchs was neither Islamic Moors nor ambitious aristocrats. It was a former French corporal from Sicily—that unholy French emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte. Napoleon invaded Spain and put his brother Joseph-Napoleon on the Spanish throne. When Napoleon’s army moved west toward Portugal, the Portuguese royal family fled to Brazil, making Rio di Janeiro the new capital of the Portuguese empire. By the time Spanish forces, often conducting major guerilla operations, together with their  British allies, defeated the imperial French forces in the Peninsular Wars, new sociopolitical forces were stirring in Iberia, as they were across Europe. A rising middle class was increasingly restive and seeking a larger sphere of political freedom and political participation. Even among the aristocratic class were many who accepted and supported the imperative to broaden political representation and societal rights—or risk the kind of radical revolt that had occurred at the end of the 18th Century in North America and France.

In Portugal, these liberal voices called for King Joäo VI to return from Brazil and end the autocratic regency of the British soldier Marshal William Carr Beresford. Joäo sailed back to Lisbon and, before stepping back on Portuguese soil, agreed to the demands of the liberal faction to abide by the Constitution of 1822. Under this constitution, Joäo would be a limited monarch working with a reinvigorated and expanded Cortes, now in the role of a modern parliament. But Joäo’s wife and younger son Miguel, on arriving from Brazil, sided instead with the reactionary faction that sought to maintain the old “absolute” monarchy and its alliance with the Catholic church. With the backing of this antiliberal coalition, Miguel usurped the throne after Joäo’s death.

Portrait of Miguel as King

The liberal faction responded by calling for his older brother, Pedro, to return from Brazil and accept the role of constitutional monarch. Pedro was quite happy being Pedro I, Emperor of Brazil, which his father had declared a separate state from Portuguese lands.

Miguel’s brother, Pedro

Nevertheless, Pedro abdicated the Brazilian throne in favor of his son (Pedro II of Brazil) and returned to Portugal, landing near Porto, which was the stronghold of liberal sentiment (that is, support for a parliamentary monarchy). Porto endured a long and deadly siege by the Miguelite forces, but eventually the liberal forces, led by aristocratic military men supportive of the liberal cause, defeated Miguel’s navy and army.

There were more ups and downs between the liberal and antiliberal factions, but eventually Miguel was exiled to Genoa and never succeeded in building a large enough backing to again challenge Pedro and his heirs. Throughout the remainder of the century, a succession of revolts and military coups d’etat kept Portugal’s parliamentary monarchy from making much progress in modernizing the country’s infrastructure and putting the national finances on a sound footing. The first railway line in Portugal did not open until 1856. The net effect was to keep both more-liberal (that is, pro-republican) and antiliberal (favoring a stronger monarch and a weakened Cortes) sentiment in ferment.

Portugal gets its first railway in 1856

Meanwhile, in Spain, after seeing off the French army of invasion in 1812, thereby winning the long and bloody Peninsular War, Spain’s liberal revolutionaries dumped King Joseph Bonaparte and reconstituted the Cortes of Cadiz as a representative parliament with delegates from all over Iberian Spain and the Spanish overseas possessions. This Cortes adopted a liberal Constitution (the Constitution of 1812) that made Spain a parliamentary monarchy. However, when Ferdinand VII returned to the throne in 1814, he pitched the constitution and re-established the traditional absolute monarchy.

Districts from which deputies were elected to the reformed Cortes of Cadiz

Spain spent much of the remainder of the 19th Century enmeshed in the liberal versus antiliberal struggles known as the Carlist Wars.

Painting of a battle during the first Carlist War

The name derives from supporters of a claimant (pretender) to the throne, Don Carlos, brother of King Ferdinand VII. After Ferdinand’s death, the succession went to his elder daughter Isabella, who was still a child. So her mother, Queen Maria Christina, ruled as Regent in the parliamentary monarchy established by the liberal Constitution of 1837. The political faction supporting this parliamentary monarchy were called the Cristinos, after Maria Christina. The Carlists were the antiliberal faction, demanding a return to autocratic monarchy.

Don Carlos of Spain, poster boy for Spanish antiliberals

This “liberal versus antiliberal” interpretation of the Carlist Wars is complicated by a second dimension in which tradition opposed innovation. The Cristinos wanted to strengthen the national government by ending much of the traditional regional variations in laws and customs that were important in Catalonia, the Basque provinces, and Galicia. The Carlists supported maintaining these regional traditions, so the Catalans, Basques, and Galicians largely sided with them.

For both Portugal and Spain, these decades-long struggles between liberalizing the monarchy to expand rights and preserving traditional restrictions on rights meant that growing economic and societal problems were left to fester. As the century ended, both countries were far weaker, poorer, and facing more serious social problems than in their former glory days. The clamor for change would continue into the early 20th century, when both countries would try abandoning their constitutional monarchies for democratic republics. The failures of those liberal attempts led directly and disastrously to the antiliberal and autocratic dictatorships of Salazar and Franco.

Is the Past in Iberia Prologue for America’s Future?

Once I had come to understand the past two centuries of Spanish and Portuguese history in terms of enduring conflict between liberal and antiliberal views on how society would distribute rights and political freedoms, I wondered about parallels with my own country. Of course, there are important differences: America has been a republic since the rebellion against King George III and his conservative Parliament. We haven’t fought over the transition from absolute monarchy to a parliamentary one. But just about the time I began making sense of 19th Century Iberian political history, I finished reading Robert Kagan’s Rebellion: How Antiliberalism is Tearing American Apart—Again. Kagan argues—with strong documentary support—that from the Colonial period up to the present, America has had strong antiliberal movements opposed to the liberalizing ideals expressed in the Declaration of Independence and supported—albeit imperfectly—by the U.S. Constitution (particularly as that constitution has been amended over time). American antiliberalism has several major components: Christian nationalism (America should be a Christian nation in which Christians and their beliefs have special status) and White supremacy (denial of full rights of citizenship and liberty, in Hayek’s sense, to those of ethnicities other than Western European).

In both Spain and Portugal, more than a century of gradual, up-and-down progress toward liberal civil societies ended with the sudden, violent overthrow of their struggling republics and the establishment of autocratic dictatorships that lasted for decades. In America, will more than a century of gradual, up-and-down progress toward realizing the ideals of a liberal society for all, as expressed in our Declaration of Independence, end with the violent overthrow of our liberal republican government? And if America slips into authoritarian rule, how long will that last?


[1] Friedrich A. Hayek, The Constitution of Liberty, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1978. Pg. 11.

[2] And Hayek’s wrestling with how best to set these boundaries is part of what makes The Constitution of Liberty an important study even today, more than 80 years after its first publication.

[3] Corey Robin, in The Reactionary Mind: Conservatism from Edmund Burke to Donald Trump, argues that conservatives have always been reactionaries—opposed to their era’s attempts at expanding rights to groups previously denied them. So the term “reactionary conservative” would be redundant in his view. Robert Kagan, in Rebellion: How Antiliberalism is Tearing American Apart—Again, cuts conservatism more slack (he sometimes refers to “liberal conservatives” to refer to right-of-center liberals) and so prefers the term “antiliberalism.” After more than a decade of trying to determine what really matters to American conservatives, I side with Robin. Interestingly, Hayek appears to side with Robin and me, at least according to the postscript he added to The Constitution of Liberty entitled “Why I am Not a Conservative.” The political theory I’ve adopted in this set of posts owes much to all three authors.

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Jen's Eye on Iberia

From Bilbao to Barcelona

On our way to Barcelona, we made several fun stops, a major one being Bilbao, the industrial port city on the Bay of Biscay—think Pittsburgh with its steel mills. In fact, Pittsburg and Bilbao are sister cities! Both suffered economic downturn related to waning iron ore/steel industries. We learned how the construction of the Guggenheim museum there in 1997 magically transformed the city. Now Bilbao is known more for its burgeoning art scene and outstanding cuisine than for iron ore. Of note: Shakespeare alludes to swords of Bilbao origin in Hamlet and The Merry Wives of Windsor.

View from our hotel window in Bilbao.
Bilboa is very trendy and fashion forward

People swimming over our heads in a former factory turned shopping mall!

The beautiful exterior of the Guggenheim in Bilbao

Poppy, the flower dog points the way to the good restaurants outside the Guggenheim

Street musician in Bilboa

We toured Bilbao’s medieval Old City, with its narrow cobblestone streets and inviting squares. We see the Catedral de Santiago (c. 1379), the monumental Plaza Nueva; and the busy La Ribera market by the river that runs through the town.

The Nervion River runs through Bilbao’s Old Town
Our Basque guide Sergio, standing in the large Plaza de Nuevo, a former factory transformed into a shopping area

Our knowledgeable local guide, Sergio, who identifies as Basque (don’t call him Spanish!), takes us on a tour of the Guggenheim and its contemporary art collection. Designed by award-winning architect Frank Gehry, the jaw-dropping structure of limestone, titanium, and glass lures many visitors to this revitalized city.

The beautiful interior lobby of the Guggenheim in Bilbao
A gigantic “tapestry” made entirely of paper and other recycled materials
Richard Serra’s imposing metal maze creations made from same steel plate used for ships’ hulls
“Interior with Mirrored Wall”—oil and magna on canvas by artist Roy Lichtenstein (1991)

An excursion takes us through countryside to where the Basque people of Spain’s Atlantic Coast and western Pyrenees have lived for centuries. Our first stop is the picturesque islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, with its 10th-century chapel perched atop the rocky crags. The chapel is only used now for weddings, some taking place under water (see below).

The 10th century chapel on San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. No one attends mass there anymore, except for the occasional wedding.
Some weddings are performed, underwater, alongside the old chapel in front of a statue of Mother Mary
Group picture of our Smithsonian tour friends

Our next stop is a poignant one: Gernika (Guernica), heart of the Basque region and the town razed by Nazi bombing in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War. The over-bombing of this small town killed mainly women and children, allegedly the first time civilians were targeted by aerial attacks. The barbarity of this act is immortalized by Pablo Picasso in his renowned painting titled Guernica (1937), so moving to see it, albeit a tile reproduction; the original is in Madrid.

Aerial bombing by Nazi Germany during the Spanish Civil War decimated the small Basque town of Guernica, killing mainly women and children
Pablo Picasso’s famous depiction of the horror of that day. This tile reproduction is in the center of the town.

We then visited revered symbols of democracy and self-governance for the Basque people—the Assembly House and the legendary Tree of Gernika, a descendant of the tree under which representatives from each Biscayan village met to formulate provincial laws.

The Assembly House in Guernica, where the democratically elected council for the territory of Biscaya (1 of 7 Basque territories) meets.
An artistic stained-glass rendering of the oak tree where long ago, representatives from each of the villages comprising the territory met to cast their votes using acorns. This tree is on the ceiling of one of the assembly house buildings.

We continued to a winery to sample the Basque coast’s unique Txakoli (pronounced chock-a-ly) wine, grown in vineyards overlooking the sea. Traditionally made only for local consumption, Txakoli gained wider recognition in the late 1980s. A tour of the facility reveals the unique process by which the wine is made. No chemicals are used to prevent oxidation of the wine, and filtration is done through natural means. The wine is kept cold and is bottled and shipped quickly per demand. Following our tasting, we enjoyed a lunch of pintxos, the Navarre region’s version of tapas (never order “tapas” in Basque Country!). https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XVeRl2qDxQk

Grape vines growing on 750 hectares of vineyard
The complicated inner workings of the winery, where stainless steel reigns supreme
Our knowledgeable guide, who is part of the family that makes this refreshing wine, explains the operation to us. Look for Txakoli in your favorite wine shop!

Basque Country is amazing. I love it here, maybe in part because three of my kids are one quarter Basque, Elcanos all, descended from Juan Sebastian d’Elcano who took over for Magellan when Magellan was killed on his journey ‘round the world. So many of the men here look like their Grandpa, Miguel (Mike Elcano). Click here for a bit more on Juan Sebastian.

Still in the Pyrenees, we journey on to the Bielsa region, stopping by fabled Pamplona, known for its annual Running of the Bulls—Encierro in Spanish and Basque. The tradition began in the 16th century when crazy people would run with the bulls for part of the half-mile from Pamplona’s corral to its bullfighting ring.

Me, running with the bulls (hee-hee)

A stretch of the half-mile path through town where the bulls run down to the bullring
Bob and I standing at the entrance of the bullring in Pamplona, where bull fights are still held throughout the summer months. ☹️ The bulls run daily during the annual Festival of San Fermin from July 7-14.
Inside the bullring

Of the thousands of participants, only 15 have died since 1910.

We slept at our lovely parador in the Pyrenees, driving over scenic mountain roads to Bielsa. While there, we breathed some fresh mountain air during our visit to Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Within its more than 56,000 acres, we did some birdwatching to locate prehistoric–looking vultures known as “bone crushers,” because that’s what they do to the carrion they eat. We then toured the picturesque town of Gistaín.

Beautiful reservoir on the Cinca river on our way to Bielsa
Our guide showing us Gistaín, a tiny village nestled high up in the Pyrenees, where time stands still
One of the streets running through the old town of Gistain
Old chimney on a rooftop in Gistain, which would draw smoke away from the open hearths that were in the center of the house
The Pyrenees valleys are constantly changing.
View from our hotel window in Bielsa
Seen across from our hotel, where we started our hike

Next stop: Barcelona!

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Jen's Eye on Iberia

Santiago or Bust

Leaving beautiful Portugal, we journeyed on to Santiago de Compostela by way of the old Galician town of Pontevedra, our first stop in Spain. From there we continued on to Santiago, capital of Spain’s northwest Galicia region.

Our parador in Santiago was a former hostel turned hotel to provide shelter for the pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela.
Modern-day pilgrim arriving at Santiago de Compostela. That’s our hotel in the background.

Santiago de Compostela is the last stop on the celebrated pilgrimage route of the Way of St. James. It’s been traveled by thousands of peregrinos (pilgrims) for 1,200 years and counting, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The magnificent Cathedral is presumed to house the silver crypt believed to hold the remains of St. James the Apostle.

Spain’s King commissioned the Cathedral’s reconstruction from 1060 to 1211 after the original church was destroyed in 997 CE. Stonemasons added the elaborate Baroque façade between the 16th and 18th centuries.

According to legend, the apostle St. James came to Galicia as a missionary to preach Christianity around 40 AD. Herod had him beheaded, and his body was taken away and buried. After his remains were found in the early 9th century, Galicians constructed a shrine and people began making a pilgrimage to it, taking various routes throughout Europe. Francis of Assisi, Dante Alighieri, Charlemagne, El Cid, and my friend Jim Clark number among the many who have walked this path, known as The Way. Those who can demonstrate (by showing stamps in a “pilgrim passport”) that they’ve walked at least 100 kilometers (about 60 miles) earn a compostela or certificate of completion when they reach Santiago. Well over 100,000 pilgrims from 100+ countries make the pilgrimage each year.

Santiago de Campostella ranks among Spain‘s most beautiful and visited cities.
Our Smithsonian tour group gathered on the plaza in front of the Cathedral.
The “Codex Calixtinus,” written in the 12th century, is the first guidebook designed to help pilgrims undertaking this journey.

To mitigate the odor of the many pilgrims who slept in the Cathedral, eight men known as tiraboleiros would swing the renowned Botafumeiro, a massive censer suspended by a pulley from the ceiling. Here’s a video of it in action: https://youtu.be/CQ51-eZuG8A?feature=shared

Me, leaning against the now defunct fountain where arriving pilgrims bathed before entering the cathedral. It would still smell pretty bad in there, they say.

The four sides of Plaza de Obradoiro, the square surrounded by Santiago’s most important and impressive buildings, represent four architectural styles: Neoclassical, Baroque, Renaissance, and Gothic, which in turn represent the four primary aspects of civic life: the religious (Cathedral), the political (Town Hall), the cultural (University of Santiago’s rectorate building), and the commercial (our historic hotel!).

The four sides of the monumental square called Plaza de Obradoiro is said to represent the four primary aspects of civic life: the religious, the political, the cultural, and the commercial.
Day or night, the plaza is always buzzing with the sounds of happy people meeting up with new friends and celebrating their grand achievement.

It’s fun to explore this eminently walkable World Heritage city, with lots of niches and alleyways to get lost in, reminiscent at times of Venice. The marketplace where merchants offer produce, meat, fish, pastries, and more is a great way to spend time and sample delicious — and fresh — food from the region.

On the way to our next stop in the vibrant city of León, we passed through Astorga, known for its medieval walled Old Town and the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga, a building designed by Catalan architect António Gaudi and built between 1889 and 1913. Designed in the Catalan modernisme style, it is one of only three buildings he designed outside of Catalonia.

Beautiful Palacio Episcopal de Astorga,
also called Palacio de Gaudi.
The old serpentine walls that surround it.
Inside the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga, the Bishop’s “house.” Gaudi pioneered the use of parabolic arches to support his buildings, eliminating the need for flying buttresses, which he derisively called “crutches.” The grouping of small round windows within the arches of larger ones is a paniche of the rose windows found in many Gothic churches. He liked to play with traditional decorative elements and make them more stylized while still respecting the tradition they came from.

Next stop is León, also on The Way of St. James pilgrimage route. After a Moorish ruler sacked León in the 10th century, the Spanish rebuilt it, and it became the seat of Western Europe’s first parliament under King Alfonso IX in the 12th century. Our tour guide told us of the city’s impressive historical and architectural heritage, evident in the 13th-century León Cathedral, one of Spain’s most beautiful churches, with its sculpture-covered façade and impressive stained glass windows.

Cathedral of León with its rose windows and flying buttresses
Detail on door showing the Virgin Mary with a baby below her on an altar. This represents the history of poor women leaving their babies at the church door when they were unable to care for them.
One of the many stunning, towering stained glass windows of the Cathedral, said to rival those of Norte Dame de Chartres.

A couple of scenes from chapels within the Cathedral.

We stayed in a beautiful historic hotel in Leon, which was a former convent for monks in the 15th and 16th centuries and which perfectly combined modern style with ancient architecture.

Interior and exterior views of our beautiful hotel in Leon, a former convent for monks. In Europe, a convent occurs inside the city, whereas a monastery is outside the city. They can both refer to a place for nuns OR monks.

Continuing our journey, we stopped in the elegant port city and Cantabrian capital of Santander, which sits in one of Spain’s most beautiful bays. Spanish kings made this city their residence in the early 20th century. Highlights included Santander’s beaches and the cape of Cabo Mayor with its clifftop vista. Next stop: Bilbao.

Bob and I posing above the Cantabrian sea.
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