Bob's Eye on Iberia

Thoughts on Iberia in the 19th Century

My previous post reflected on the authoritarian dictatorships in Portugal and Spain during much of the 20th century: Salazar’s dictatorship in Portugal, Franco’s in Spain. Both resulted from opposition to attempts to move from traditional monarchic rule to a liberal democratic republic. This post provides context for both the failed attempts at liberal democracy and the strength of the reactions against them by turning back to what happened in the 19th century in both countries. To accomplish that in a single post, I need first to define some essential concepts, using terms that unfortunately are often misused and abused in current political discourse.

Liberty, Rights, Liberalism, and Anti-liberalism

In The Constitution of Liberty, political philosopher (and Nobel-winning economist) Friedrich Hayek defines the “state of liberty or freedom” as “the state in which a man is not subject to coercion by the arbitrary will of another or others.”[1] With some important caveats, this is a pretty good starting point for discussing political freedom and liberty. The first caveat is that we have to replace Hayek’s “man” with “person,” to get rid of the implicit cultural gender bias that Hayek shares with Jefferson in the Declaration of Independence. Second, we have to acknowledge that “coercion” is a loaded term that needs careful unpacking. Third, we must deal with the reality that political freedom only becomes an issue in a societal context, so the sphere of activity in which one person can exercise liberty is bounded by the spheres of freedom of others.[2]

In a particular social order, or civil society, the rights accorded an individual define and protect that person’s sphere of free action, his or her liberties. Rights set and clarify the boundaries of liberty. Despite the claims about natural rights made by 18th century Enlightenment thinkers—including the Founding Fathers of the United States—all rights are grounded in the social context of being human and are shaped by the social order in which one lives. In class-hierarchical societies, such as medieval feudalism, rights depend on a person’s class. For example, feudal lords have more extensive rights than peasants or tradesmen, who in turn have more rights (a larger sphere of action free of coercion) than do serfs and slaves. The dominant religion in a feudal society typically has a clerical hierarchy that assigns rights according to one’s place in the hierarchy.

In the context of societies evolving out of feudal class hierarchies, liberalism refers to the extension of rights (and the liberties defined by those rights) to those who previously were denied them. The reaction to preserve traditional rights for select groups, rather than accept the extension of those rights to others, is antiliberalism or reactionary conservatism.[3] I will use the word liberal to describe persons or actions that support liberalism. I use antiliberal to refer to persons or actions opposing the extension of rights beyond those classes and groups that held them in the past.

Rights in 19th Century Portugal and Spain: Tradition Versus Expansion

With this bit of political theory in hand, we can get back to what I learned about Spain and Portugal during this trip. As related by the many experts who explained Iberian history as we toured from Lisbon to Barcelona, the politics of 19th Century Portugal and Spain are mind-numbingly complex. Which King Alfonso/Afonso did what, and why, to which Pedro or Ferdinand or Juan/Joäo made sense when I heard it, but an hour later that detail became entangled with a hundred others. As I reviewed historical timelines and Wikipedia entries to untangle the data into information, a common theme emerged:

In broad terms, the sociopolitical histories of Spain and Portugal during the 19th Century are stories of (a) liberal efforts to expand the rights of groups previously restricted from exercising certain liberties versus (b) the antiliberal reaction against those liberal efforts by those seeking to maintain traditional restrictions of rights to groups with higher status.

Most of the time, the liberalizing efforts were aimed at transitioning a government from more-or-less absolute monarchy to a parliamentary monarchy in which the coercive powers of king, aristocracy, and church were to be restricted by rights guaranteed in a written constitution. At times, more-radical liberals pushed for an end to monarchy in favor of a republic, but in 19thCentury Iberia, republicans were quickly suppressed. I have to qualify the monarchic tradition in Portugal and Spain as “more or less absolute” because Iberian monarchs always had to deal with a traditional and powerful aristocracy. In both countries, the formal role of the aristocracy in governance had been represented since medieval times by a cortes, which functioned (when it functioned) as a kind of advisory council to the monarch.

Iberian Kingdoms in 1210

In Portugal, if the monarch was weak or the royal succession was in dispute, one or more aristocrats would rebel and take over the throne. Sometimes the rebellion began a new dynasty; sometimes it quickly succumbed to an heir from the old line or to another aristocratic challenger. In Spain before 1469, multiple kingdoms and dukedoms changed boundaries periodically, as local rulers fought or married each other. That year, Isabela of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon married and, calling themselves the Catholic Monarchs, united most of Spain under their combined rule. Their grandson became the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, as well as the first Habsburg king of Spain, Charles I. But Charles’s great-great-grandson, Charles II, died without children, and the next Spanish king was decided via a grand melee among European monarchs and aristocrats known as the War of the Spanish Succession.

But by the beginning of the 19th Century, the existential threat to Iberian monarchs was neither Islamic Moors nor ambitious aristocrats. It was a former French corporal from Sicily—that unholy French emperor, Napoleon Bonaparte. Napoleon invaded Spain and put his brother Joseph-Napoleon on the Spanish throne. When Napoleon’s army moved west toward Portugal, the Portuguese royal family fled to Brazil, making Rio di Janeiro the new capital of the Portuguese empire. By the time Spanish forces, often conducting major guerilla operations, together with their  British allies, defeated the imperial French forces in the Peninsular Wars, new sociopolitical forces were stirring in Iberia, as they were across Europe. A rising middle class was increasingly restive and seeking a larger sphere of political freedom and political participation. Even among the aristocratic class were many who accepted and supported the imperative to broaden political representation and societal rights—or risk the kind of radical revolt that had occurred at the end of the 18th Century in North America and France.

In Portugal, these liberal voices called for King Joäo VI to return from Brazil and end the autocratic regency of the British soldier Marshal William Carr Beresford. Joäo sailed back to Lisbon and, before stepping back on Portuguese soil, agreed to the demands of the liberal faction to abide by the Constitution of 1822. Under this constitution, Joäo would be a limited monarch working with a reinvigorated and expanded Cortes, now in the role of a modern parliament. But Joäo’s wife and younger son Miguel, on arriving from Brazil, sided instead with the reactionary faction that sought to maintain the old “absolute” monarchy and its alliance with the Catholic church. With the backing of this antiliberal coalition, Miguel usurped the throne after Joäo’s death.

Portrait of Miguel as King

The liberal faction responded by calling for his older brother, Pedro, to return from Brazil and accept the role of constitutional monarch. Pedro was quite happy being Pedro I, Emperor of Brazil, which his father had declared a separate state from Portuguese lands.

Miguel’s brother, Pedro

Nevertheless, Pedro abdicated the Brazilian throne in favor of his son (Pedro II of Brazil) and returned to Portugal, landing near Porto, which was the stronghold of liberal sentiment (that is, support for a parliamentary monarchy). Porto endured a long and deadly siege by the Miguelite forces, but eventually the liberal forces, led by aristocratic military men supportive of the liberal cause, defeated Miguel’s navy and army.

There were more ups and downs between the liberal and antiliberal factions, but eventually Miguel was exiled to Genoa and never succeeded in building a large enough backing to again challenge Pedro and his heirs. Throughout the remainder of the century, a succession of revolts and military coups d’etat kept Portugal’s parliamentary monarchy from making much progress in modernizing the country’s infrastructure and putting the national finances on a sound footing. The first railway line in Portugal did not open until 1856. The net effect was to keep both more-liberal (that is, pro-republican) and antiliberal (favoring a stronger monarch and a weakened Cortes) sentiment in ferment.

Portugal gets its first railway in 1856

Meanwhile, in Spain, after seeing off the French army of invasion in 1812, thereby winning the long and bloody Peninsular War, Spain’s liberal revolutionaries dumped King Joseph Bonaparte and reconstituted the Cortes of Cadiz as a representative parliament with delegates from all over Iberian Spain and the Spanish overseas possessions. This Cortes adopted a liberal Constitution (the Constitution of 1812) that made Spain a parliamentary monarchy. However, when Ferdinand VII returned to the throne in 1814, he pitched the constitution and re-established the traditional absolute monarchy.

Districts from which deputies were elected to the reformed Cortes of Cadiz

Spain spent much of the remainder of the 19th Century enmeshed in the liberal versus antiliberal struggles known as the Carlist Wars.

Painting of a battle during the first Carlist War

The name derives from supporters of a claimant (pretender) to the throne, Don Carlos, brother of King Ferdinand VII. After Ferdinand’s death, the succession went to his elder daughter Isabella, who was still a child. So her mother, Queen Maria Christina, ruled as Regent in the parliamentary monarchy established by the liberal Constitution of 1837. The political faction supporting this parliamentary monarchy were called the Cristinos, after Maria Christina. The Carlists were the antiliberal faction, demanding a return to autocratic monarchy.

Don Carlos of Spain, poster boy for Spanish antiliberals

This “liberal versus antiliberal” interpretation of the Carlist Wars is complicated by a second dimension in which tradition opposed innovation. The Cristinos wanted to strengthen the national government by ending much of the traditional regional variations in laws and customs that were important in Catalonia, the Basque provinces, and Galicia. The Carlists supported maintaining these regional traditions, so the Catalans, Basques, and Galicians largely sided with them.

For both Portugal and Spain, these decades-long struggles between liberalizing the monarchy to expand rights and preserving traditional restrictions on rights meant that growing economic and societal problems were left to fester. As the century ended, both countries were far weaker, poorer, and facing more serious social problems than in their former glory days. The clamor for change would continue into the early 20th century, when both countries would try abandoning their constitutional monarchies for democratic republics. The failures of those liberal attempts led directly and disastrously to the antiliberal and autocratic dictatorships of Salazar and Franco.

Is the Past in Iberia Prologue for America’s Future?

Once I had come to understand the past two centuries of Spanish and Portuguese history in terms of enduring conflict between liberal and antiliberal views on how society would distribute rights and political freedoms, I wondered about parallels with my own country. Of course, there are important differences: America has been a republic since the rebellion against King George III and his conservative Parliament. We haven’t fought over the transition from absolute monarchy to a parliamentary one. But just about the time I began making sense of 19th Century Iberian political history, I finished reading Robert Kagan’s Rebellion: How Antiliberalism is Tearing American Apart—Again. Kagan argues—with strong documentary support—that from the Colonial period up to the present, America has had strong antiliberal movements opposed to the liberalizing ideals expressed in the Declaration of Independence and supported—albeit imperfectly—by the U.S. Constitution (particularly as that constitution has been amended over time). American antiliberalism has several major components: Christian nationalism (America should be a Christian nation in which Christians and their beliefs have special status) and White supremacy (denial of full rights of citizenship and liberty, in Hayek’s sense, to those of ethnicities other than Western European).

In both Spain and Portugal, more than a century of gradual, up-and-down progress toward liberal civil societies ended with the sudden, violent overthrow of their struggling republics and the establishment of autocratic dictatorships that lasted for decades. In America, will more than a century of gradual, up-and-down progress toward realizing the ideals of a liberal society for all, as expressed in our Declaration of Independence, end with the violent overthrow of our liberal republican government? And if America slips into authoritarian rule, how long will that last?


[1] Friedrich A. Hayek, The Constitution of Liberty, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1978. Pg. 11.

[2] And Hayek’s wrestling with how best to set these boundaries is part of what makes The Constitution of Liberty an important study even today, more than 80 years after its first publication.

[3] Corey Robin, in The Reactionary Mind: Conservatism from Edmund Burke to Donald Trump, argues that conservatives have always been reactionaries—opposed to their era’s attempts at expanding rights to groups previously denied them. So the term “reactionary conservative” would be redundant in his view. Robert Kagan, in Rebellion: How Antiliberalism is Tearing American Apart—Again, cuts conservatism more slack (he sometimes refers to “liberal conservatives” to refer to right-of-center liberals) and so prefers the term “antiliberalism.” After more than a decade of trying to determine what really matters to American conservatives, I side with Robin. Interestingly, Hayek appears to side with Robin and me, at least according to the postscript he added to The Constitution of Liberty entitled “Why I am Not a Conservative.” The political theory I’ve adopted in this set of posts owes much to all three authors.

Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

Barcelona!! The Land of Gaudy, I mean Gaudi :)

Barcelona—what a fascinating place! Fabled in fact. One legend says that Hercules founded it 400 years before Rome’s birth and another that Hannibal’s father Hamilcar Barca founded it in the 3rd century BCE.

The Arc de Triomf was built by architect Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas as the main access gate for the 1888 Barcelona World Fair, crossing over the wide central promenade of the Passeig de Luis Companys.

Barcelona is now Catalonia’s capital, Spain’s second largest city, and one of Europe’s most popular vacation spots. Fun fact: Barcelona had no beaches prior to the 1992 Olympics, when it relocated the industries occupying the seaside and created more than 2½ miles of beach. The city is immensely walkable as well, with the equivalent of 260 football fields designated as pedestrian zones. We logged LOTS of steps walking up and down the Gran Via de Cortes Catalunya to see the sites or catch the metro. Our beautiful hotel located in the heart of the city gave us a great starting point for exploring everything, especially dining options!

Barcelona’s popular beach scene
Beachgoers with sail-shaped building in the background
Typical Barcelona street lined with motorcycles
City vista from a park promenade in the city
So many outfits to see along the promenades
Out to dinner with new friends—so many restaurants, so little time!

Our first official tour of the city featured the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), a maze of medieval streets, squares, and mansions. And then there’s Antonio Gaudi, Barcelona’s flamboyant native son, artist, and architect. A walk through Parc Guell, designed by him, is like walking through a storybook featuring fanciful designs and buildings.

Although flamboyant in his designs, Gaudi was rather shy and lived a lot in his head. Here is young Gaudi (on bottom) and older Gaudi (next to me)
Gaudi loved the curvy and the fanciful. His designs were inspired by three sources: Nature, Catholicism, and Catalan culture and history.
Fanciful gargoyles at Parc Guell
Ornate “gingerbread houses” that Gaudi designed for his friend who’d presented a fairytale-based opera in the park, which bombed.
Beautiful promenade with ball adornments meant to symbolize rosary beads

But nothing compares to his masterpiece, the towering Sagrada Familia, one of Barcelona’s most beloved places. Our tour inside the surreal cathedral took our collective breath away. It remains a work in progress, left unfinished when Gaudi was hit by a tram and died penniless and unrecognized (initially) in 1926.

The ornate front facade of the Sagrada Familia. Note the fruit atop the columns meant to represent the apostles.
The transcendent altar of the Sagrada Familia. Special services and other events are held here.
The red and yellow stained-glass windows face south, representing summer and resurrection.
Sunlight through the stained glass reflects yellow, blue, and green onto the vaulted walls. The effect in person is indescribable.

Because no one ever seems to get enough of Gaudi, we started the next day with a visit to the curvy stone-faced Casa Milà with its rooftop chimney garden. The wealthy Milà family commissioned Gaudi to design this multi-apartment building, which took 5 years to complete. When it was done, the family requested a simpler facade; that never happened, and eventually the curves grew on them. What a fascinating place, full of Gaudi-esque features and unique designs.

The curvy facade of Casa Milà perfectly reflects Gaudi’s belief that “straight lines do not exist in nature” and he loved Nature.
Striking interior courtyard of Casa Milà
Me, on the rooftop of Casa Milà with my friends, fierce-looking warriors who protect the inhabitants. It is rumored that George Lucas got his inspiration from these Star Wars-looking statues
Here’s what really holds up Casa Milà—parabolic arches, an invention of Gaudi’s.
Here is another house that Gaudi designed for another wealthy family. Look at that roof, supposed to emulate a lizard, a very Gaudian symbol in Barcelona. The balconies look like faces and tulips.

Apart from the tours organized as part of our trip, Bob and I spent much time on our own, exploring museums, walking along promenades, spending time at the seashore, and more.

The Picasso museum was fascinating. Here he is, looking very Parisian-smug.
By the way, Picasso painted this portrait of his father when Picasso was 13 years old! He studied and emulated the Masters before finding his own voice in cubism and avant-grade art
Bob and I took the metro down to see the Port of Barcelona and walk on the beaches.

Video scan of Barcelona from atop the Castell Montjuic, the high point (reached by cable car) in Barcelona.

Happy statue of citizens circling up to do the Catalan dance called the Saldana.
On our way down Montjuic, we stopped in the Joan Miro museum. Here is an example of his innovative work with color, wool, and abstraction, using the symbols of star, bird, and moon.
Bob and I at the Miro Museum

From small cafes to five-star restaurants; intimate parks to miles-long boulevards; and ancient architecture to some of the most contemporary buildings anywhere in the world, Barcelona will sweep you away!

View of the 1929 exposition plaza. The four columns represent the four stripes of the Catalan senyera (flag).
Looking up at the grand Catalan Art Museum, highly rated, though we ran out of time and missed it
Of course, I had to stop by the Barcelona Aquarium since aquaria are, after all, one of my favorite things

How can you not love aquaria?

On the last evening of our tour, we were treated to an authentic Catalan dinner, including tomato bread and Spanish paella, at a local restaurant.

Seafood paella, crispy on the bottom, is my favorite!
What a great tour group we were a part of. Smithsonian Journeys + Odyssey Tours = The Best

Adios! to Spain and to Barcelona. and to all the new friends we met along the way.

Discovering new food and new music was a definite highlight.
Here’s to our next adventure—heads up, France!
Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

From Bilbao to Barcelona

On our way to Barcelona, we made several fun stops, a major one being Bilbao, the industrial port city on the Bay of Biscay—think Pittsburgh with its steel mills. In fact, Pittsburg and Bilbao are sister cities! Both suffered economic downturn related to waning iron ore/steel industries. We learned how the construction of the Guggenheim museum there in 1997 magically transformed the city. Now Bilbao is known more for its burgeoning art scene and outstanding cuisine than for iron ore. Of note: Shakespeare alludes to swords of Bilbao origin in Hamlet and The Merry Wives of Windsor.

View from our hotel window in Bilbao.
Bilboa is very trendy and fashion forward

People swimming over our heads in a former factory turned shopping mall!

The beautiful exterior of the Guggenheim in Bilbao

Poppy, the flower dog points the way to the good restaurants outside the Guggenheim

Street musician in Bilboa

We toured Bilbao’s medieval Old City, with its narrow cobblestone streets and inviting squares. We see the Catedral de Santiago (c. 1379), the monumental Plaza Nueva; and the busy La Ribera market by the river that runs through the town.

The Nervion River runs through Bilbao’s Old Town
Our Basque guide Sergio, standing in the large Plaza de Nuevo, a former factory transformed into a shopping area

Our knowledgeable local guide, Sergio, who identifies as Basque (don’t call him Spanish!), takes us on a tour of the Guggenheim and its contemporary art collection. Designed by award-winning architect Frank Gehry, the jaw-dropping structure of limestone, titanium, and glass lures many visitors to this revitalized city.

The beautiful interior lobby of the Guggenheim in Bilbao
A gigantic “tapestry” made entirely of paper and other recycled materials
Richard Serra’s imposing metal maze creations made from same steel plate used for ships’ hulls
“Interior with Mirrored Wall”—oil and magna on canvas by artist Roy Lichtenstein (1991)

An excursion takes us through countryside to where the Basque people of Spain’s Atlantic Coast and western Pyrenees have lived for centuries. Our first stop is the picturesque islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, with its 10th-century chapel perched atop the rocky crags. The chapel is only used now for weddings, some taking place under water (see below).

The 10th century chapel on San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. No one attends mass there anymore, except for the occasional wedding.
Some weddings are performed, underwater, alongside the old chapel in front of a statue of Mother Mary
Group picture of our Smithsonian tour friends

Our next stop is a poignant one: Gernika (Guernica), heart of the Basque region and the town razed by Nazi bombing in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War. The over-bombing of this small town killed mainly women and children, allegedly the first time civilians were targeted by aerial attacks. The barbarity of this act is immortalized by Pablo Picasso in his renowned painting titled Guernica (1937), so moving to see it, albeit a tile reproduction; the original is in Madrid.

Aerial bombing by Nazi Germany during the Spanish Civil War decimated the small Basque town of Guernica, killing mainly women and children
Pablo Picasso’s famous depiction of the horror of that day. This tile reproduction is in the center of the town.

We then visited revered symbols of democracy and self-governance for the Basque people—the Assembly House and the legendary Tree of Gernika, a descendant of the tree under which representatives from each Biscayan village met to formulate provincial laws.

The Assembly House in Guernica, where the democratically elected council for the territory of Biscaya (1 of 7 Basque territories) meets.
An artistic stained-glass rendering of the oak tree where long ago, representatives from each of the villages comprising the territory met to cast their votes using acorns. This tree is on the ceiling of one of the assembly house buildings.

We continued to a winery to sample the Basque coast’s unique Txakoli (pronounced chock-a-ly) wine, grown in vineyards overlooking the sea. Traditionally made only for local consumption, Txakoli gained wider recognition in the late 1980s. A tour of the facility reveals the unique process by which the wine is made. No chemicals are used to prevent oxidation of the wine, and filtration is done through natural means. The wine is kept cold and is bottled and shipped quickly per demand. Following our tasting, we enjoyed a lunch of pintxos, the Navarre region’s version of tapas (never order “tapas” in Basque Country!). https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XVeRl2qDxQk

Grape vines growing on 750 hectares of vineyard
The complicated inner workings of the winery, where stainless steel reigns supreme
Our knowledgeable guide, who is part of the family that makes this refreshing wine, explains the operation to us. Look for Txakoli in your favorite wine shop!

Basque Country is amazing. I love it here, maybe in part because three of my kids are one quarter Basque, Elcanos all, descended from Juan Sebastian d’Elcano who took over for Magellan when Magellan was killed on his journey ‘round the world. So many of the men here look like their Grandpa, Miguel (Mike Elcano). Click here for a bit more on Juan Sebastian.

Still in the Pyrenees, we journey on to the Bielsa region, stopping by fabled Pamplona, known for its annual Running of the Bulls—Encierro in Spanish and Basque. The tradition began in the 16th century when crazy people would run with the bulls for part of the half-mile from Pamplona’s corral to its bullfighting ring.

Me, running with the bulls (hee-hee)

A stretch of the half-mile path through town where the bulls run down to the bullring
Bob and I standing at the entrance of the bullring in Pamplona, where bull fights are still held throughout the summer months. ☹️ The bulls run daily during the annual Festival of San Fermin from July 7-14.
Inside the bullring

Of the thousands of participants, only 15 have died since 1910.

We slept at our lovely parador in the Pyrenees, driving over scenic mountain roads to Bielsa. While there, we breathed some fresh mountain air during our visit to Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Within its more than 56,000 acres, we did some birdwatching to locate prehistoric–looking vultures known as “bone crushers,” because that’s what they do to the carrion they eat. We then toured the picturesque town of Gistaín.

Beautiful reservoir on the Cinca river on our way to Bielsa
Our guide showing us Gistaín, a tiny village nestled high up in the Pyrenees, where time stands still
One of the streets running through the old town of Gistain
Old chimney on a rooftop in Gistain, which would draw smoke away from the open hearths that were in the center of the house
The Pyrenees valleys are constantly changing.
View from our hotel window in Bielsa
Seen across from our hotel, where we started our hike

Next stop: Barcelona!

Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

Santiago or Bust

Leaving beautiful Portugal, we journeyed on to Santiago de Compostela by way of the old Galician town of Pontevedra, our first stop in Spain. From there we continued on to Santiago, capital of Spain’s northwest Galicia region.

Our parador in Santiago was a former hostel turned hotel to provide shelter for the pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela.
Modern-day pilgrim arriving at Santiago de Compostela. That’s our hotel in the background.

Santiago de Compostela is the last stop on the celebrated pilgrimage route of the Way of St. James. It’s been traveled by thousands of peregrinos (pilgrims) for 1,200 years and counting, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The magnificent Cathedral is presumed to house the silver crypt believed to hold the remains of St. James the Apostle.

Spain’s King commissioned the Cathedral’s reconstruction from 1060 to 1211 after the original church was destroyed in 997 CE. Stonemasons added the elaborate Baroque façade between the 16th and 18th centuries.

According to legend, the apostle St. James came to Galicia as a missionary to preach Christianity around 40 AD. Herod had him beheaded, and his body was taken away and buried. After his remains were found in the early 9th century, Galicians constructed a shrine and people began making a pilgrimage to it, taking various routes throughout Europe. Francis of Assisi, Dante Alighieri, Charlemagne, El Cid, and my friend Jim Clark number among the many who have walked this path, known as The Way. Those who can demonstrate (by showing stamps in a “pilgrim passport”) that they’ve walked at least 100 kilometers (about 60 miles) earn a compostela or certificate of completion when they reach Santiago. Well over 100,000 pilgrims from 100+ countries make the pilgrimage each year.

Santiago de Campostella ranks among Spain‘s most beautiful and visited cities.
Our Smithsonian tour group gathered on the plaza in front of the Cathedral.
The “Codex Calixtinus,” written in the 12th century, is the first guidebook designed to help pilgrims undertaking this journey.

To mitigate the odor of the many pilgrims who slept in the Cathedral, eight men known as tiraboleiros would swing the renowned Botafumeiro, a massive censer suspended by a pulley from the ceiling. Here’s a video of it in action: https://youtu.be/CQ51-eZuG8A?feature=shared

Me, leaning against the now defunct fountain where arriving pilgrims bathed before entering the cathedral. It would still smell pretty bad in there, they say.

The four sides of Plaza de Obradoiro, the square surrounded by Santiago’s most important and impressive buildings, represent four architectural styles: Neoclassical, Baroque, Renaissance, and Gothic, which in turn represent the four primary aspects of civic life: the religious (Cathedral), the political (Town Hall), the cultural (University of Santiago’s rectorate building), and the commercial (our historic hotel!).

The four sides of the monumental square called Plaza de Obradoiro is said to represent the four primary aspects of civic life: the religious, the political, the cultural, and the commercial.
Day or night, the plaza is always buzzing with the sounds of happy people meeting up with new friends and celebrating their grand achievement.

It’s fun to explore this eminently walkable World Heritage city, with lots of niches and alleyways to get lost in, reminiscent at times of Venice. The marketplace where merchants offer produce, meat, fish, pastries, and more is a great way to spend time and sample delicious — and fresh — food from the region.

On the way to our next stop in the vibrant city of León, we passed through Astorga, known for its medieval walled Old Town and the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga, a building designed by Catalan architect António Gaudi and built between 1889 and 1913. Designed in the Catalan modernisme style, it is one of only three buildings he designed outside of Catalonia.

Beautiful Palacio Episcopal de Astorga,
also called Palacio de Gaudi.
The old serpentine walls that surround it.
Inside the Palacio Episcopal de Astorga, the Bishop’s “house.” Gaudi pioneered the use of parabolic arches to support his buildings, eliminating the need for flying buttresses, which he derisively called “crutches.” The grouping of small round windows within the arches of larger ones is a paniche of the rose windows found in many Gothic churches. He liked to play with traditional decorative elements and make them more stylized while still respecting the tradition they came from.

Next stop is León, also on The Way of St. James pilgrimage route. After a Moorish ruler sacked León in the 10th century, the Spanish rebuilt it, and it became the seat of Western Europe’s first parliament under King Alfonso IX in the 12th century. Our tour guide told us of the city’s impressive historical and architectural heritage, evident in the 13th-century León Cathedral, one of Spain’s most beautiful churches, with its sculpture-covered façade and impressive stained glass windows.

Cathedral of León with its rose windows and flying buttresses
Detail on door showing the Virgin Mary with a baby below her on an altar. This represents the history of poor women leaving their babies at the church door when they were unable to care for them.
One of the many stunning, towering stained glass windows of the Cathedral, said to rival those of Norte Dame de Chartres.

A couple of scenes from chapels within the Cathedral.

We stayed in a beautiful historic hotel in Leon, which was a former convent for monks in the 15th and 16th centuries and which perfectly combined modern style with ancient architecture.

Interior and exterior views of our beautiful hotel in Leon, a former convent for monks. In Europe, a convent occurs inside the city, whereas a monastery is outside the city. They can both refer to a place for nuns OR monks.

Continuing our journey, we stopped in the elegant port city and Cantabrian capital of Santander, which sits in one of Spain’s most beautiful bays. Spanish kings made this city their residence in the early 20th century. Highlights included Santander’s beaches and the cape of Cabo Mayor with its clifftop vista. Next stop: Bilbao.

Bob and I posing above the Cantabrian sea.
Standard
Bob's Eye on Iberia

Dark Mirror

My usual preparation for an international trip includes boning up on the history and culture of the places we’ll visit. I’ll read those sections in one or two of the guidebooks we’re taking, look up some topics on the Internet, and perhaps add a book about a country or a region. As I reviewed Portuguese and Spanish history for this trip, I was struck by my changed  reaction now, versus the past, to a common element in the stories of both countries.

Portugal was a monarchy from 1138 until 1910, trending, in fits and starts, from absolutist (but with a powerful feudal, and often feuding, aristocracy) to parliamentary (but still feuding) monarchy. The monarchy ended in 1910 with establishment of a republic. But the economic problems that had persisted throughout the 19th century continued, and the republican government was overthrown in 1928 by a military coup. An economics professor, Antonio Oliveira de Salazar, served first as the finance minister under the new authoritarian regime and then as prime minister from 1932 until his death in 1970. Wikipedia describes Salazar’s dictatorship, the Estado Novo (New State), as conservative, corporatist, and nationalist. Portugal remained a dictatorship until 1974.

The Spanish Second Republic was established in 1931 but by 1936 descended into civil war when conservatives and monarchists refused to accept electoral defeat by the leftist Popular Front. General Francisco Franco’s Falangist faction won the civil war, and Spain remained under Franco’s dictatorial and repressive rule from 1939 until his death in 1975. Spain did not get its third chance at being a liberal democracy until 1977.

In March 1939, Salazar and Franco met to celebrate a “treaty of friendship and non-aggression” between their two countries.

In years past, before this trip, reading about these falls from democracy into autocracy felt like viewing distant, foreign problems with no relevance to American democracy. Portugal and Spain attempted liberal democracy only after centuries of monarchic rule. My country, by contrast, had thrown off a colonial yoke, negotiated the constitutional basis for a federated republic, and grown during 200 years from a seaboard collection of 13 colonies to a continent-spanning nation of 50 states. Our civil war was more than 100 years in the past when I reached voting age. I was proud of America’s success as a liberal democracy and leader of the free (i.e., liberal democratic) world.

Pablo Picasso painted Guernica in 1937 to protest the bombing of that Basque city by Nazi Germany in support of Franco’s repression of Basque resistance. He painted it for the 1937 Paris International Exhibition, where it was displayed near the grandiose exhibit from Hitler’s Germany.

As the proverb warns, too much pride sets one up for a fall. Reading now about Spanish and Portuguese history, reflecting on the current state of democracy in the U.S., I tremble for the future of my country. Instead of looking back on distant and foreign tragedies, I see, as through a darkening mirror, America’s possible future. Substantial numbers of my countrymen care more about getting what they want than sharing their liberties with all their fellow citizens. Those who want preferred status for descendants of Europeans (White Nationalists) or for adherents to their brand of traditional Christianity (Christian Nationalists) and those who just want to undo the progress toward equal participation and opportunity achieved by segments of society formerly denied equal status (reactionary conservatives) do not yet constitute a majority. But they come close enough to gain political control in this federated system the founding fathers thought would protect political minorities from a tyrannical majority. And they are eager to follow the lead of a new pied piper, who plays them a tune of redressing their grievances, even if it means abandoning rule of law for autocracy. It took Portugal 48 years and the death of Salazar to regain a democratic republic; Franco ruled Spain for 36 years. How long would it take America?

Our tour guide in Bilbao said that Robert Motherwell painted Iberia in 1958 to express the fear and despair he found in Portugal and Spain, still under the authoritarian regimes of Salazar and Franco. The small white fragment emerging from the lower left corner symbolizes the hope for freedom swelling up from the oppressed.

Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

Oporto My Porto

Oporto’s rich history dates back to the Phoenicians who established a settlement here in the 8th century BCE; the Romans later founded the town of Portus (“port”) in the 1st century BCE. The city loves its native son, Henry the Navigator, who, in the 15th century sponsored voyages to find a sea route to India around Africa. Portugal’s constitutional government resulted from the Liberal Revolution of 1820 that began here.

Henry the Navigator
Train station mural done in tile

Highlights of our city tour include the historic city center; the Baroque Clerigos Church, with its imposing bell tower; the city’s railroad station, the sophisticated Foz oceanfront district, and a “six-bridge” cruise on the Douro River (see pictures below).

Green fountain in square

Porto railroad station

Big city view of Porto from atop Graham‘s port lodge

The Duoro’s microclimate supports the grapes that make the city’s famous port wine. The Romans planted grapevines centuries ago.

Bridge across the Douro River

The tour’s big finale was a visit to Graham’s port lodge for a tasting of this fortified wine exclusive to the region. We can thank British merchants for Port, since it was they who began adding brandy to Oporto wine to protect the wine during its shipment to England.

Multiple casks containing port at various stages of aging.
Now that’s a cask!
The port tasting proved to me that I do indeed like port, especially if there’s chocolate involved

We ended our day sipping a drink and having tapas with some new friends at a café on Avenida dos Aliados in the city center, watching the tripeiros, as Oporto residents are known.

We had a tapas lunch and people-watched along the river where the white umbrellas are

This is the last post from Portugal, off to Spain!!

Our 5 ⭐️hotel—Pousada Pestana Palacio do Freixo—was beautiful.

Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

Goodbye Lisbon

Heading north, we left Lisbon for the small fortified town of Obidos, where we took a walking tour through picturesque streets and squares. Obidos is known as the “wedding present town” because Portugal’s King Denis gave it to his Queen Isabella on their wedding day in 1282 CE. Portugal’s kings continued this tradition for more than 500 years.

Street musicians are common in Obidos and pretty much every city we visited in Portugal. 
Approaching the city wall to enter and explore the  charming town of Óbidos. 
Beautiful geometric patterns in front of church in Obidos—Igreja de Santa Maria to be exact. 

We continued on to the seaside village of Nazare, known for its massive waves and surfing records. Big-wave surfers the world over descend upon Nazare to test their skills, tackling waves as big as 80 – 115 feet.

Sanctuary of our lady of Nazare
Altar 
Beach in Nazaré, south of the beach where the big waves land. 
The town of Nazaré

Our pousada in lovely Oporto—Portugal’s 2nd largest city—is an architectural masterpiece and a UNESCO World Heritage site. I could get used to this, i.e., staying in five-star hotels!

Views from our pousada in Porto. 

Coming up: more on beautiful Porto—and Port!

Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

Day 2 in Portugal

This morning’s tour of Lisbon started with a drive through the old city, where we saw many statues on pillars and fancy patterns of black and white limestone mosaics on the sidewalks and streets. Most amazing was the “great sea” pattern in Restuardo Square, which gives a tromp l’oiel impression of undulating waves.

Lisbon is all about visual patterns—on the walls, ceilings, floors and everywhere.


Our morning’s tour included a visit to the majestic Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a monastery built on the ruins of an earlier church in 1501 and finished 100 years later. It was here, in the earlier church, that Vasco da Gama and crew spent their last night in Portugal in prayer before embarking on their historic journey around Africa’s Cape of Good Hope to India. His four ships and 170 men were the first to navigate this crucial sea route.


Façade of the monastery chapel
Bob taking pictures of the courtyard
Ribbed vaults above the promenade
Ornate fountain

We also saw the “Belem tower,“ a symbol of Lisbon built to guard the mouth of the Tagus river, which connects the capital city with the Atlantic Ocean—and with the wider world.

Speaking of monuments, we visited the inspiring Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates Portugal’s seafaring and entrepreneurial heritage (pictured below).

Back on the bus, we traveled outside the city to tour the lovely National Palace of Queluz,” (built, 1658–1758), which became the seat of Portuguese royalty in the mid-1700s.





Keeping track of Portugal’s kings and queens is mind boggling, especially with all the interfamily marriages—uncles to nieces, aunts to nephews, cousins to cousins, many with the same names. It brought to mind that old country classic, “I’m My Own Grandpa.” 😁

Dinner was delicious, more seafood, at a cozy nightclub in the old quarter called Bohemia LX, where we listened to a live performance of Portugal’s haunting and lyrical traditional fado music.

I’m falling in love with this place!

Standard
Jen's Eye on Iberia

We have arrived (Chegámos).

So fun to be here in Lisbon, Portugal, for the first time. Even though we were the walking dead after our 7.5-hour flight (took off at 11:00 pm from Dulles and landed at 11:30 AM in Lisbon), we had a full first day. We met our tour director and fellow tour members and had a traditional Portuguese dinner of codfish cake with potato, kale, and other veggies. Dessert was a baked berry pavlova, which was a meringue-y delight.

Before dinner, we decided to stroll down to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, which is a treasure of Portugal. Over his lifetime Gulbenkian (1869-1955) amassed one of the best and most extraordinary private art collections in the world. It extends from Eastern and classical antiquity to European art from the early 20th century, with artworks and objects from Paris and London to the Islamic world. I’ve included some pics of a few of these exhibits.

White jade vase which dates back to the 15 century, Timurid period.
Sculpture of St. John and Virgin Mary carved in lime wood (14th c.).
Diego Velazquez was court painter for the Spanish King Phillip IV(1605-1665).
It is part of a vast body of work that sought to affirm the king’s public image.
“The Stocking” by Mary Cassatt, 1891, Portugal

Tomorrow, we will explore more of Lisbon, which Rick Steves describes as “ramshackle, trendy, and charming all at once—an endearing mix of now and then.” I can see that already.

After tomorrow, we will head north to Nazare and Oporto and stay in an old palace, called a pousada, which has existed since the 17th century and is a national landmark in Portugal. Stay tuned!

Standard
Jen's Eye on the Northeast

Highlights, Lowlights, and Insights from our Northeast Tour 2021

Highlights:

The weather. The weather gods were truly with us for every* activity we did, most of which were outdoors—sunshiny blue skies and moderate temps nearly all the time.

The food!! This trip could have been titled: Eating Our Way through the Northeast, a Gourmand’s Tour. Click here for some of the notable places and dishes.  

Longwood Gardens. Our first stop set the bar high, offering a seemingly endless path of beauty to marvel at.

Storm King Art Center. Similar to Longwood Gardens, but with sculpture instead of plants. Walking through this landscape in which giant sculptures claim their place in the world was enchanting.

Let’s hear it for trolley tours! OK, I admit it, I love them, the cornier the better. The trolley tour in Newport, RI, let us peer into how the top 1-percent live, while the tour in Philly provided a panoramic experience of the whole city, narrated.

The art we bought. A definite highlight, going different places and buying art is always fun. Here’s what we got where:

Square Pear Fine Art Gallery, Kennet Square, PA:

Lenox Art Walk, Lenox, MA, and Norman Rockwell Museum, Stockbridge, MA

The view from the top. Although driving UP the Mt. Washington Auto Road for 8+ miles was NOT fun, being at the top, inside a cloud, was pretty amazing. There’s also a cool museum up there that describes the achievements of brave hikers and meteorologist types.

Kayaking on the Delaware Water Gap Recreation Area. Again, perfect weather and river conditions—we’d never done a river course like this before, and I wondered how the rapids would be. Luckily, very tame! So much to see out on the river.

Visiting Edith Wharton’s home, The Mount. Given I had just read and led a discussion of Age of Innocence for my book club, it was a special treat to visit the author’s home and learn more about her. She really did change the world for women.

Whales!! Even though we saw just two female humpbacks named Music and Pitcher because of their tail markings, they really put on a shew, let me tell you—breaching, half-breaching, fin flaps, tail slaps (called lobtailing), they did them all.

The Kancamagus Lodge, Lincoln, NH. Why did this make the highlights? Because I got to use this beautiful pool, all by myself!

Seeing the Barnes Foundation Collection. Although odd at first—no descriptive plaques about artists or pieces and seemingly no rhyme or reason for how the paintings are arranged—with the help of the Barnes app to explain things, you start to appreciate the quirky ensembles and find yourself really focusing on the art itself.

Acting like a tourist in Baltimore. Staying two nights so close to home may seem odd, but it forced us to see and do things, like a self-guided church tour or a Fells Point diversion, that we normally wouldn’t do, plus it extended our vacation…nope, we weren’t home yet! 😊

Lowlights

A couple of the hotels: The Ramada Inn by Wyndham in Newburgh, NY, and the Quality Inn in East Stroudsburg, PA. We had to change rooms in Newburgh because of the odor (plus other residents thought it was fine to smoke in the hallways). And the Quality Inn was anything but, including the air quality, which was thick, and the AC completely ineffective; plus, flying bugs, ok I’ll stop.

The Brandywine Museum of Art in Chadds Ford, PA was closed. Our pre-arranged N.C. Wyeth Studio tour was canceled due to flood damage; instead, we visited the Square Pear Art Gallery and toured a mushroom farm (after all, Kennett Square IS the mushroom capitol of the world).

The cool, unpretentious, great-seafood-at-decent-prices place that we wanted to return to in Woods Hole has been transformed into a pricey, hoity-toity restaurant. Still good, but not the same as our old Fishmongers Cafe.

Speaking of “not the same,” our honeymoon BnB had fallen from grace. Into the hands of lawyers trying to sell it. Thus, although the room price is still high, the ambiance, service, amenities, even the bathtub…were terrible. One piece of good luck: we were able to transfer from the first room they gave us.

Falling hard against slippery river stones. This happened to me in NH on an otherwise beautiful hike, which required crossing a rushing stream—twice! I fell trying to jump from one stone to another, went down hard, and bruised my entire lower leg.

Downpour on arrival in Philly. While the weather was with us 99% of the time, we did have to slosh through a “cats and dogs” downpour while walking 15 blocks to Independence Hall for a timed tour. We were soaked and Bob’s pocketknife had to be left on a window ledge outside. Don’t he look sneaky?

Driving UP the Mt. Washington Auto Road. OK, this was terrifying—straight up 8 miles on a winding road, fog, no guardrails, warning signs every 10 feet about brakes failing, etc. I was crying inside the whole way up and back down. Bob was oblivious—he wasn’t driving.

No elevator at the Baltimore Comfort Inn. When we arrived at the Comfort Inn & Suites at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, we were told the elevator was out and that our room was on the 6th floor; Bob pivoted quickly and got us a fully equipped room in the much nicer Day’s Inn Inner Harbor.

Insights

OK, I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again: Forget the BnBs on the outskirts and the historic old European-style hotels in the city center. Give me a modern hotel with cable, mini-fridge, microwave, working shower, and coffee maker any day of the week!

COVID concerns varied extensively from state to state. NH was more likely to say “consider wearing a mask,” which most ignored, while in Philly we had to present our vax cards to enter restaurants. Also, NH was quite “Trumpy” in places, more than I expected, with streams of motorcyclists sporting long ponytails and beards, no helmet, making noise. “Live free or die” is the state motto.

Traveling by car to multiple locations is fun if the driving intervals are less than 3.5 hours. And the route is important: I go for scenic over expedient. New England is BEAUTIFUL!

Plan some, leave some open. This trip was a feat of near-perfect planning, thanks to Bob. We had a room booked every place we went, but also enough fat in the schedule to allow flexibility. Striking that balance is worthwhile.

* One little exception is noted in lowlights.

Standard